SXSWhirlwind

Our 12 favorite films, parties, and moments from SXSW 2023

Another year of South by Southwest (SXSW) has come and gone, and we have the sore throats and trapezius muscles to show for it. The conference offered some inspiring moments, celebrity sightings, and the networking can never be beat — especially for the tireless penny pinchers and tree huggers who took the bus or got rides. But it was the local aspect that swept us away this year.

There were more than 25 conference tracks and hundreds of showcasing artists wrapped up in the 2023 festivities. Even an attendee who makes three events all 10 days only covers less than 10 percent of the schedule — and that’s not even counting all the unofficial parties. This year, we were proud to see the brightest cultural lights in Austin shining through on an international stage, and our favorite picks reflect that duality.

From hyperlocal to here-there-and-everywhere, here are our top films, concerts, parties, and more from SXSW 2023.

Most adventurous meal:National Geographic dinner
Austin chefs were busy during SXSW, but Arlo Grey’s Kristen Kish was busy long before the festival even started. The Top Chef winner is debuting a new National Geographic series this week, and CultureMap was lucky enough to get a sneak peek at a private preview dinner. The menu paired ingredients inspired by the remote locations featured in the four-part docuseries, giving us a culinary glimpse of Kish’s adventures in Restaurants at the End of the World, premiering March 21 on Disney+. — Hannah J. Frías, Editor

Favorite new product: Calibrate Wellness brunch
Speaking of busy chefs, Nic Yanes (Juniper, Uncle Nicky’s) recently launched Calibrate Wellness, a line of delicious Delta8 edibles with his co-founder Janice Omadeke, a former tech CEO of The Mentor Method (and the first Black woman with a venture-backed tech exit in Austin). The pair shared their wares during a special Future of Food brunch on the first Sunday of SXSW, with food from 1417 French Bistro. Inviting guests to try four different flavors of dosed or undosed samples, Yanes and Omadeke discussed their mission at Calibrate to provide safe, delicious, and even nutritious cannabis products. Considering we had a long day of SXSW ahead, we tried the undosed versions (the matcha one and the peanut butter were standouts), but we may or may not have saved a sample for a venture out to Willie Nelson’s ranch later in the week. — HJF

A new obsession:Balimaya Project
One of the best parts of SXSW is the international curation. Jazz re:freshed, a contemporary jazz record label in London, hosted an “outernational” showcase highlighting British jazz, which happened to feature Balimaya Project when I wandered into the seemingly defunct Seller’s Underground. The large band — too many to count through the packed crowd — piled onstage, but the figurative spotlight fell mostly on the kora player, Jali Bakary Konteh. The West African instrument is something between a harp and a banjo, and the crowd was transfixed by its spiraling tones and rhythms. The groove included lots of percussive elements and assertive horns for one of the most sonically and physically engaging live shows of the festival. — Brianna Caleri, Assistant Editor

Most inspiring documentary:Going Varsity in Mariachi
There was no shortage of star-studded premieres at SXSW this year, but my favorite film of the fest was Going Varsity in Mariachi. Mexican-American filmmakers Alejandra Vasquez and Sam Osborn have created something truly special with this one, blending the story arc of a high school underdog team with realistic, joyful, and at times raw insights into South Texas border culture. The film follows Edinburg North High School’s mariachi team on their road to the state championship, and all the challenges they face along the way — individually, and as a team. Paired with an incredible original soundtrack, the film often felt visually more like a Wes Anderson creation than a documentary, capturing the colors and sounds of life in the Rio Grand Valley and inviting viewers on a vibrant emotional journey. — HJF

Courtesy SXSW

Going Varsity in Mariachi captures the colors and sounds of life in the Rio Grand Valley, inviting viewers on a vibrant emotional journey.

The power of a place:Join or Die
There was one event I couldn’t stop telling people about, and I did it like this: “A political scientist found that joining one group,” [pause for emphasis], “reduced someone’s chances of dying by half.” This was met with many incredulous stares. Join or Die, a documentary, did justice to the incredulity of its premise, treating the concept of social capital and the power of joining groups with a necessary seriousness, but keeping the tone approachable. After all, the goal is to invite more people to get involved, not to push a doomsday narrative about the collapse of social infrastructure, one of the driving problems that prompted the research. I distilled some of the film’s major points and made recommendations on Austin groups to join for CultureMap readers. — BC

Favorite unofficial party: Rolling Stone X Bumble party
One of the wildest things about SXSW is the plethora of unofficial parties that pop up in intimate Austin venues across town. One of my favorites took place at Howard’s Bar, co-hosted by Rolling Stone and Bumble to kick off Rolling Stone’s inaugural music showcase. Both the party and the showcase celebrated emerging women’s voices in the music industry, providing a stage to elevate the next generation of influential artists. The party itself featured a curated setlist from Madison McFerrin (a.k.a., Melismata Mama), which attendees bopped to while enjoying specialty cocktails and bites from Rosie’s Wine Bar, Howard’s Bar & Club, and Swedish Hill Sweets. Notable guests included actress and musician Scout LaRue Willis, singer-songwriter Remi Wolf, Grammy-nominated artist Valerie June, model Nicole Trunfio, members of The Bros Fresh, and more. — HJF

The Austin element:Local bands
As intoxicating as a good international find is, SXSW is a great time to connect with local talent. One audience member before a show sounded disappointed to learn that Caleb de Casper was local, and left to find something more unattainable year-round. From what I saw, that audience member missed out. De Casper strutted out in sneaker heels, a sparkler bra, and body hair, and delivered his usually synth-pop tunes in a harder rock style with a reminder that SXSW underpays artists and that the dragged out performance may be “illegal next year.” I also appreciated the theatrical and funky grooves of Walker Lukens, and was proud to introduce a visiting friend to one of Austin’s most established performers outside of the pop mainstream, swamp-funk band Shinyribs. He was smitten. — BC

Shelter from the storm: The Young Wife
One challenge of SXSW is that everything you want to attend seems to happen at the same time. After missing the film’s opening night on Sunday, March 12, I was glad to catch The Young Wife for an intimate showing at the AFS Cinema, a satellite SXSW location. Directed by Tayarisha Poe (Selah and the Spades), The Young Wife follows a young woman on her wedding day as she grapples with the meaning of love in the face of an uncertain world. Relative newcomer Kiersey Clemons (Somebody I Used to Know) plays the titular character, alongside an impressive cast that includes Emmy-Award winner Sheryl Lee Ralph. Leon Bridges makes his acting debut opposite Clemons, and while I will admit that was my main draw, I enjoyed the film’s moody aesthetics, which paired perfectly with the tornado-level storm that washed out festival events in other parts of Austin that night. — HJF

Spellbinding art:Kite Zo A (Leave the Bones)
Fans of Beyoncé’s Lemonade and other visual albums may be swept away by Kite Zo A, something between that and a cultural documentary. The “sensorial film” travels to Haiti and places a special emphasis on movement and ritual, following dancers, rollerbladers, parade revelers, and more to the sounds of Haitian band Lakou Mizik and electronic artist Joseph Ray. “Kite Zo A,” in Haitian creole, means “Leave the Bones” — that is, an evil or oppressive force may consume a person’s living form, but their essence remains. Although the film does address some politics, poverty, and a spirit of resistance, it takes an immaculate and celebratory spiritual tone thanks to some attentive editing and the omnipresence of Vodou as a cultural overlay. — BC

Most seductive sound: Quinn x Bumble brunch
Bumble kept the focus on women with its second SXSW party of the week. On the heels of their “You Come First” Valentine’s Day campaign, Bumble partnered with audio erotica app Quinn for a SXSW brunch. The luxurious Hotel St. Cecilia provided a perfectly sensual setting for the event, which served as the exclusive premiere of a new Quinn Original Audio - the third episode to 'The Misty Door' series, voiced by actor Jesse Williams. Guests were invited to catch a sneak preview of the audio and left with customized goodie bags. — HJF

A gateway experience:NoSex|SexParty
File this under “really useful, but still finding its legs.” A collective of sexual health, sexy entertainment, and hookup facilitators (including Austin’s own Afterglow, a women-led, ethical porn creator), joined forces to throw a sex party without the messy bits. It was crowded and a little awkward since most attendees came with their SXSW posses and weren’t dressed for the occasion. Downstairs, there was flogging, body painting, a sensual movement workshop, and an ongoing screening of a new Afterglow film. Upstairs, some of us chatted about practicing morally tricky kinks in a safe and considerate way, and buying food trucks. Once you know the ins-and-outs of someone’s most intimate fantasies, the conversation can go anywhere. — BC

Best escape: Potluck + Luck Reunion
One of my SXSW highlights every year is escaping the fest altogether, heading out to Willie Nelson’s ranch in Spicewood for his annual Luck Reunion. The event is the perfect antithesis to the standard over-crowded, over-stimulating SXSW affair, inviting attendees to celebrate great music on smaller stages with a more intimate crowd. In 2023, Luck Reunion became its own mini-festival, expanding beyond the main music night to include three food-focused events. My favorite was Potluck, a family-style dinner where proceeds go to Nelson’s longtime charity partners, including Farm Aid, Wholesome Wave, and the Texas Food & Wine Alliance. This year’s iteration paid homage to the main agricultural crops of indigenous cuisine (maize, squash, and climbing beans), and included a private performance from the living legend himself. I was lucky enough to snag a front row spot, where I got a wink and a wave from Willie and thus have reached the pinnacle of my career. I can retire happy. — HJF

sxsw 2023 documentary bumble rolling stone party showcase music austin live music

Movie Review

Strange decisions pay off in unusual movie musical Emilia Pérez

Photo courtesy of Netflix

Zoe Saldaña and Karla Sofía Gascón in Emilia Pérez.

Musicals have been used as a medium to convey all sorts of different stories, from the Old West, to cats, to one of the Founding Fathers. But it takes a certain kind of imagination to think that a cartel boss making a gender transition as she quits the drug business is a prime candidate for an original movie musical, as is done in Emilia Pérez.

The person with that unusual thinking is French writer/director Jacques Audiard, who in addition to making the film a musical, decided to do it almost entirely in Spanish, a language he doesn’t even speak. Adding to all the other atypical aspects, the main character of the film is not the one after whom the film is named. Instead, the main character is Rita Mora Castro (Zoe Saldaña), the lawyer hired by cartel boss Manitas Del Monte (Karla Sofía Gascón), to help her achieve her dream of becoming a woman.

Of course, that dream comes with consequences, most importantly how to separate the soon-to-be Emilia Pérez from her wife, Jessi (Selena Gomez), and her kids without arousing suspicion. The solution, as well as the “death” of Manitas, is elegant, but after a period of time Emilia finds herself longing for her kids again. Rita re-enters to set up the arrangements, setting in motion a series of events that are both predictable and unpredictable.

The musical sequences of the film are fascinating, mostly because they don’t adhere to the rules typically used in musical films. More often than not they pop up out of nowhere, with a character speaking normally and then deciding that the next line needs to be the start of a song. This allows Audiard to utilize all sorts of locations as the settings for the sequences, as well as the incorporation of unorthodox elements, such as the loading of guns as musical beats.

Even though 90 percent of the film is in Spanish with English subtitles, none of the feeling of the story is lost in translation. Several of the songs are certified bangers, with the repetition of phrases giving them a great rhythm even if you have to keep glancing down to understand what they’re singing. Each of the main three characters get a chance to shine even though none of the songs require the actors to belt them out.

Audiard does a subtle job of commenting on the experience of being a transgender woman in the position that Emilia finds herself. Her desire to live her life as she’s always wanted is in conflict with still wanting to see her kids, as she doesn’t want to reveal the person she used to be. Her personal life is also in conflict with a newfound urge to help families that were victimized by Manitas. The ever-changing story keeps both the characters and the audience on their toes.

Saldaña, whose time in the worlds of Star Trek, Marvel, and Avatar the past 15 years has been her biggest exposure, digs deep into this character, putting on a compelling performance. So too does Gascón, a Spanish transgender actor who embodies every aspect of her role in a manner only someone like her could. Gomez seems slightly miscast, but she has enough solid scenes to justify her presence in the film.

Emilia Pérez is a film that upends expectations at almost every turn. While it might have also worked as a non-musical, the music side of it supports the story in unconventional ways, drawing the audience deeper into a story that itself is out of the ordinary.

---

Emilia Pérez is now streaming on Netflix.

movies film